Florida Kingsnake Care

What is a Florida Kingsnake?

A Florida Kingsnake is a beginner-friendly snake from Central and southern Florida. Adults reach 3.5–5 ft (42–60 in; robust-bodied for a kingsnake; some individuals reach 6 ft; heavier-bodied than California kingsnake at the same length) and can live 20+ years in captivity — a long-term commitment. Florida kingsnakes are robust, heavy-bodied colubrids from Florida's subtropical lowlands — the most humidity-tolerant of the commonly kept kingsnakes, with a similarly bold temperament and strong feeding response, but requiring higher ambient humidity and a larger enclosure than western kingsnake species.

What size enclosure does a Florida Kingsnake need?

The minimum enclosure for an adult Florida Kingsnake is 4×2×2 ft (48×24×24 in) minimum; due to robust adult size (up to 5 ft and heavy-bodied), 5×2×2 ft or larger preferred for large females. Secure lid mandatory. Provide two hides (warm and cool end) and a water dish large enough to soak in.. Bigger is always better — Florida Kingsnakes benefit from extra space to thermoregulate and express natural behaviours.

What you need:

1. Secure enclosure with tight lid — snakes are escape artists; latches or locks required.
2. Thermostat-controlled heat source — under-tank mat, radiant heat panel, or ceramic heat emitter.
3. Two hides minimum — one on the warm side, one on the cool side (security reduces stress).
4. Water bowl — large enough to soak in; changed frequently.
5. Appropriate substrate — aspen, coconut fiber, or bioactive blend; adequate depth to burrow.

What temperature does a Florida Kingsnake need?

Florida Kingsnakes need a thermal gradient: warm side 88–92°F, cool side 75–80°F. Use an under-tank heat mat, ceramic heat emitter, or radiant heat panel — all on a thermostat. Measure with a digital thermometer, not the stick-on strip gauges. Temperatures can drop to 68–75°F at night.

Do Florida Kingsnakes need UVB?

Florida Kingsnakes need low UVB — target UVI 1.0–2.0. A T5 HO 5–6% tube (e.g., Arcadia ShadeDweller) is recommended over supplementation alone. Use the UVB Calculator above to find the correct bulb and mounting height. Replace bulbs every 12 months regardless of whether they still emit visible light.

What humidity does a Florida Kingsnake need?

Maintain humidity at 50–70%. Moderate humidity suits most commonly available substrates. Maintain a moist hide in one corner to support proper shedding. A digital hygrometer is essential.

What do Florida Kingsnakes eat?

Florida Kingsnakes are carnivores that eat whole prey — primarily mice and rats. Appropriately-sized frozen-thawed whole prey (mice for juveniles; mice to medium rats for large adults); prey sized to the snake's widest body girth. Hatchlings every 5–7 days; adults every 10–14 days. Florida kings are opportunistic and will eat rodents, birds, frogs, lizards, and other snakes in the wild — offer variety (chicks, quail) for enrichment. CRITICAL: ophiophagous — never house with other snakes or reptiles. Always offer prey frozen-thawed. Feed juveniles more frequently than adults; established adults can go weeks between meals without issue.

1. Whole prey — appropriately sized mice, rats, or other whole prey items.
2. Frozen-thawed preferred — never feed live prey; live prey can injure your Florida Kingsnake.
3. Feeding frequency — juveniles every 5–7 days; adults every 1–4 weeks depending on size.
4. No supplementation needed — whole prey provides complete nutrition; no dusting required.

Can you house Florida Kingsnakes together?

Solitary — house individually. Florida kingsnakes are confirmed ophiophages and will eat other snakes including conspecifics. Historically, Florida kings and corn snakes share habitat in the wild — that is not a cohousing invitation. Start with brief, calm handling sessions (5–10 minutes) and gradually increase as your Florida Kingsnake becomes accustomed to you. Wash hands before and after every handling session.

Are Florida Kingsnakes good for beginners?

Yes — Florida Kingsnakes are an excellent first reptile. Animals cost 50–100 (standard wild-type banded); albino and other morphs 100–300+ depending on morph/locality. The main ongoing costs are frozen prey items, UVB bulb replacements (if used), and occasional vet visits.